Bar Harbor, Maine

Finding European Grace in New England

By Julie and Travis Sullivan

Slightly inland, the Ledgelawn Inn offers many of the same amenities, at a price reflecting New England frugality in contrast to Balance Rock Inn's European luxuriousness, though with most of the same amenities. Without water views but still within easy walking distance of the center of Bar Harbor's town and the sea, Ledgelawn's 34 lovely, character-filled rooms are a pleasurable surprise. Rooms have some combination of whirlpool tubs, saunas and fireplaces and are spread between the main house and the carriage house.

One room's toilet is in an old elevator that still has the floor buttons and one room's wall was once a brick hearth. One bathroom sink is a pounded gold bowl inlaid into the countertop. Ledgelawn also serves afternoon tea and a continental breakfast buffet.

The inn was built in 1904 as a summer cottage for a shoe manufacturer from Boston and was the last large summer residence built on Mt. Desert Street. According to the inn's history, the owner's daughter was to have been married in 1910, but her fianc矣alled off the wedding and she apparently hung herself from the chandelier in her room with her wedding dress on. There have been numerous sightings of her over the years in several of the inn's rooms.

The salty coast of Bar Harbor brings a taste of European charm and New England history. Both the Balance Rock and the Ledgelawn Inns are cheerful, relaxing places to enjoy one of New England's finest resort towns.

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